A Familiar Friend
I'm sitting down to dinner in the restaurant at my hotel, happy to be here. It’s Ascension Day and many of the restaurants and shops are closed in recognition. I was lucky to catch a place at the edge of town, and had a great meal way out of my normal dietary regimen.
The cultural differences are always interesting when reflected in food. As I sit waiting for my meal, I look at the bread in the small basket in front of me. I really like the bread here in France, but it seems that if you don't eat it, they just put it back into the bin and reserve it. I guess that makes sense in some ways, although it’s a little concerning to see them move the stuff around with bare hands—the same way I got a cookie at the bakery yesterday. The proprietor simply reached over and grabbed it and put it in a bag for me. They must wash their hands a lot more here in France, right?
Today is day four of the journey, and I'm starting to fall into a routine. When I first began this trip, strapping on my backpack was like tying a cinder block over my shoulders. Now it's a familiar friend, contoured as if it has always been a part of me. When I'm going uphill, it's a very large and heavy part of me.
I slept great last night, and the plan this morning was to hit a convenience store on the way out of town and grab a sandwich for later. The store was supposed to open up at 8:30 a.m., but when I passed by at 8:35 it was locked down tight. Either the guys working there have their own timetable, or it was closed all day for the holiday. I wasn't going to hang around and wait to see if they ever opened. It was time to press on, as the day was already starting to heat up and headed for the 90s again.
There were fewer people out on the trail today. In total, I probably saw no more than 20 individuals out walking. That doesn't mean there weren't many more. They could have left before or after me, and I would never see them. But there is a real sense that things are thinning out. On that topic, so am I. Each day I cinch down my belt and there's a little more material coming out the far side. Maybe it's just water weight … but maybe sitting on the couch and watching TV burns less calories than walking 6 to 8 hours a day.
Everybody picks their own place to take a break. Some are shaded areas with water and benches. Those are ideal and fairly infrequent. A boulder, a flat rock, or a piece of fallen timber can serve as a bench if it's in the shade. I saw several people today doing foot care while taking their breaks.
It's interesting to watch people crisscross the path in search of little spots of shade as they walk all day long. In some areas, that just wasn't going to happen. Great open vistas of hills and fields means there are no trees to provide shade. On balance, I'll suffer in the heat to have some of the spectacular views presenting themselves along the trail.
While not nearly as challenging as the second day, there were some serious climbs and descents on today’s hike. I've gotten to the point where I use my trekking poles as an extension of my arms without thought. If I'm going uphill I can plant them in the ground and use upper body strength to push myself up the incline. Coming down some of the steep slopes, they definitely stabilize me and protect my knees.
There were many opportunities to gain a 360-degree view of hills, valleys, farms, and forests. One of the surprising aspects is how everything is in focus, as far as the eye can see. Surprisingly, there are very few insects. The most wildlife I saw today were grasshoppers, and the lizards chasing them.
About an hour from my destination, I ran into Andi again. She was seated in the shade on a log enjoying a little snack. Since it was a shorter distance today, there was no rush to get to town before check-in time. It’s nice to greet people as they pass while you're on a break, or to check and make sure others are okay if they are seated along the trail. I know enough French to say, "ca va?"
Except for the heat, it was a relaxing day and I treated myself to a sit-down lunch and dinner. Lunch was lamb chops and Aligot, which is potatoes combined with a local cheese. I don't know if it was because I was so hungry or if it's actually that good, but it all hit the spot. Dinner was salmon, I think it was farmed, with some vegetables and a bearnaise sauce.
Today was a fairly simple and quiet day. I'm hoping for a little cloud cover tomorrow because there's more distance to travel. So far the only rain I've seen is after I've checked into the hotels at night. I do appreciate not having to walk in the rain.
My room tonight is in a more modern building and the layout looks planned rather than retrofitted. I even have an oscillating fan, scoring this place extra points.
Tomorrow's walk takes me through some National Park areas that promise to be especially beautiful. The challenge for me is always trying to get what I can see into the pictures that I take.
While I am settling into Camino mode, there’s not too much opportunity yet to let my mind wander. The heat and time on roads are a distraction. In all, so far, I give the trip a solid 8 out of 10, and I'm glad I came.
